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Producer Craig Hawkins is one of the leading lights in South African viticulture and his Testalonga (meaning outlaw) Baby Bandito ranges is attracting much interest. 100% Chenin Blanc from a single vineyard of bush vines planted in 1972 on very rocky soil farmed organically. It’s handpicked, whole-bunch pressed and wild fermented in 2,000-litre stainless-steel tanks with no temperature control and no additives apart from a small amount of sulphur shortly before bottling unflltered and unfined. Cloudy, lemon-coloured, it is bone dry with great acidity. Apple and pear with some nice zippy white peach make this 12% appear a quaffer but there is loads to savour here so slow down.
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